Fiji - The Yasawas Islands pt2

Day 25

We awoke feeling slightly sad that this was to be our last day at Gold Coast, therefore we decided to make the most of the time left. After another juicy breakfast of pancakes and fruit we made our way down to the beach. The first thing we noticed was that the sea seemed to be much rougher than usual and we started to feel slightly apprehensive about getting on the tiny boat in a few hours to meet the Yasawa flyer.

The morning flew by at an incredible pace and soon it was time for our last lunch, which again was very tasty and filling. We thanked Filo for her hospitality and gave her some money to replace the broken lantern. It was a genuinely sad farewell. After this we made our way down to the beach until it was time to leave. Herman and Janette came to say goodbye, which was nice, but again slightly awkward and we made pleasant small talk until Filo's husband called that it was time to go. My sadness about leaving quickly turned to genuine fear for my life as we boarded the boat and headed out into the rough sea. Alan tried to reassure me that Filo's husband must know what he was doing and thankfully he did as he explained that we would be taking a safer route. We sailed the other way around the island which took us over the blue lagoon. The water was crystal clear blue and perfectly still and we felt lucky to have been given the opportunity to see such beautiful scenery. We waited for a while at a perfect beach until the Yasawa flyer arrived and then we boarded, along with Filo's husband who we assumed must be going to the mainland (possibly to replace the lantern?)

The journey to our next destination, Kuata, was uneventful except for me learning for the first time that I am prone to feeling sick in rough sea! However, I was distracted from this when I heard a loud "crack" and "argh!" Recognising the voice I looked up to discover that Alan had whacked his head on the large TV screen at the front of the boat. There were gasps from the other passengers and a few people asked if he was OK. Alan sheepishly returned to his seat next to me and tried to forget about it. One passenger seemed particularly concerned and kept turning around in his seat to look at Alan, almost as if he couldn't believe that he had not seriously hurt himself!
Luckily it had sounded much worse than it actually was. After a while it was time to leave the flyer as we approached Kuata. Just as we were leaving, Filo's husband approached us and thanked us for staying at Gold Coast. We felt touched by this gesture and assumed that he must have forgiven Alan for smashing his lantern after all.

We were welcomed onto Kuata Island by the resort staff singing and playing guitar. It was nice but not a patch on the warm welcome we had received at Gold Coast. The accommodation here, however, was much better and we were given one of the newer built bures, made out of bricks and with an ensuite bathroom, luxury! By the time we had got settled in sunset was approaching so we headed onto the beach to watch it and to explore the island. It was very different to the other sandy islands we had visited as it was made up of large volcanic rock formations, making the beach small and stony. We explored a cave and rock pools and found small fish, sea cucumbers and tiny crabs, scuttling about. We agreed it was a beautiful island.

When it was time we went for our evening meal, hoping it would be as tasty as the previous two nights. Unfortunately we were served a few bits of different food that didn't compliment each other at all. There were no seconds available, which left us feeling hungry and disappointed. Immediately after we had eaten the entertainment began and we prepared ourselves for the Bula dance. Amazingly it actually turned out to be a game far more cheesy and embarrassing than the Bula dance- a coconut race. This may sound innocent enough, however it consisted of tying a coconut to your waist and using pelvic thrusts to make the coconut in front of you move forwards. After this was demonstrated by the event organiser we decided that we were not going to participate, however the man was not going to take no for an answer. When we told him that we just wanted to watch he ushered us to stand with the other guests from the UK to form a team. Feeling irritated by this and determined not to participate, we quietly sneaked out of the dining area and escaped back to our bure. Here we waited for a while until we felt it was safe to return. Luckily the game had finished and most people were sat together having a kava ceremony. We thought about joining the group, however we worried that we would not be welcomed after our escape from the coconut race. We got a drink from the bar and got talking to another couple who had also decided not to get involved. They were both called Laura and we immediately got on well and shared various traveling experiences. We found out that they were going to the same island as us next- Manta Ray, however they were staying one more night at Kuata first. We had an early night and went to bed looking forward to our next destination.

Day 26

After hearing good things about Manta Ray we were eager to get there and after another lazy morning in the hammocks we were on our way. The usual Fijian chorus greeted us and after a welcome drink and a delicious buffet lunch we headed to our bure, which was much cleaner than we were used to, the only down side being the communal showers.

Another reason we were looking forward to the island was to do my SSI scuba course, and after a brief talk from Simon, the instructor I couldn’t wait. After only a couple hours I strapped on my Scuba gear and entered the water for my introductory dive. Often around the island huge Mantarays can be seen, but unfortunately it was out of season. Nevertheless the dive was amazing with literally hundreds of fish swimming within inches of my face. We also spotted a couple of Stingrays gliding effortlessly past, held a Sea Cucumber, Blue Starfish and poked a couple of Clownfish playfully in their anemone homes. Whilst under, I realized it was raining, the surface rippling above. All too soon my air ran out and we had to surface to the poor weather above and on leaving the water it became apparent it was really pissing down. I ran back to the bure to find Lesley barricading the door with towels in an effort to stem the flood. Thankfully the storm passed quickly and by tea, the skies had cleared. The food at the resort was excellent and we were overjoyed with the 3 course meal which made welcome change to the starchy offerings we had grown accustomed to. The night was fun and we spent much of it chatting to a nice couple of teachers called Paul and Katie. Games were held, but in no way were forced and the staff were really friendly throughout, especially Isaac, surely the campest barman in Fiji. We retired happy that we had decided to spend the next 3 nights at the resort.

Day 27

The next day passes in a much similar way to the previous, Lesley sunbathed her way ahead in the tan-off and I undertook my second and third dives. These were harder work than the first and taught skills I may need including clearing my mask of water and locating my regulator (the bit you breathe through). After this I joined Lesley for a bit of sun, jealous of the golden colour she was turning while I spent my time underwater.

We got ready and the sound of a beating drum in the distance signaled teatime. The Lauras had arrived at the island earlier that day and we sat chatting to them, Paul and Katie and two crazy loudmouthed yanks, who sent food back and asked the barman the get them bread…at a buffet! After another delicious meal (despite what the yanks thought) the games began again and after a few shandys I decided to try my luck as free cocktails were on offer. The first game in which 2 people had to get a pack of cards as far past a chalk line without either crossing the line, me and Paul came second, only beaten by the host and another guest. The second game was a bit more of a test, breaking a coconut in two with my hands. As Lesley talked to one of the crazy yanks I stepped up eager to prove my masculinity. My first attempt failed and the coconut was sent bouncing across the wooden floor. Not wanting to fail the task and cheered on by the crowd, I stepped up for a second attempt…no coconut was getting the better of me! I raised my hand high above my head and brought it crashing down with all my might. Instantly pain shot up my arm and looked quickly to my wrist which had swelled up massively, I thought the worst and by the look of the guy hosting the event, so did he. I grabbed an ice bucket and spent the rest of the night with my arm buried deep, in the hope the swelling would reduce.

Oh and if you were wondering what happened to the coconut, it did crack and I did get the free cocktail…surely worth a suspected broken wrist?

Day 28

Thankfully by morning the swelling had gone down and my wrist, apart from being purple could have passed for normal. A village trip was organised over breakfast and after rearranging my dives we departed by boat.

Our host around the village was Va, a 19 year old Fijian girl who had the maturity of someone twice her age. The village was relatively new, after splitting from another 14 years ago. We passed the cheif's house, which, compared to the villagers' was a palace and our first stop was the nursery. The children here ranged from 3-6 years and were excited by our arrival. After singing us a couple of songs the children came to greet us. I had about seven climbing on me, whilst a few showed great interest in Lesley's finger nails and jewellery. All too soon it was time to leave which some of the children found upsetting and a few high fives soon lifted their spirits and we walked back across the village to the church. Unfortunately there was no service on, apparently something to behold, filled with joyous singing and dancing, a much more enjoyable affair than our dull services.

Va then showed us to her home, which although basic, was cosy and comfortable. The kindness was extended as she wrote down her address and said that any of us were welcome to stay there anytime. We were then shown to the village hall, where about 10 stalls were set out offering various trinkets and souveniers. We bought a couple of hand made bookmarks and the woman disapeared to get some change. After waiting for her return, we feared she had done a runner but luckily for her, as i was about to go barging down some village doors, she returned with our change. Va began to lead us from the village but on the way we passed one of the bures and a distinct clap follwed by "Bula!" could be heard. A fellow guest enquired and soon we were seated for the impromptu ceremony.

We arrived back at Manta Ray and again I undertook my diving, the skills getting harder over time. I took off all my gear under water, simulated running out of air (not nice) and practiced bougancy control. Lesley continued to perfect the art of lazing in the sun, pausing only to make a shell bracelet. The day passed quickly and later we took a walk to the other side of the island and with the beach almost to ourselves, we watched the sunset. After the previous night's exploits I decided to refrain from any games and avoid further risk of injury and an early night was had.

Day 29

We awoke, feeling slightly sad as this was our last full day at Manta Ray. In the morning Alan went off to do his final two dives whilst I made myself comfortable on the beach. After a couple of hours in the sun I needed a drink so I headed to the bar for some much needed water. On the way I was lucky enough to finally see the much talked about baby goat, which was amazingly cute but very noisy. I returned to my sunbathing position and watched the boat bring new arrivals to the island. I spotted two figures that looked remarkably like the two Lauras but I thought my eyes must be playing tricks on me as they had left the previous day.

After a while Alan returned, a fully qualified scuba diver and he regaled me with tales of crayfish, stingrays and massive parrot faced bumpheads, his final two dives being by far the most exciting. We lazed through the aftrenoon, the only excitement being that the Lauras had returned. They reported having a worse experience than us at Coral View and had therefore decided to return to Manta Ray, along with a Canadian girl they had met there. We spent some time chatting to them until it was time to head over to the other side of the island to watch the sunset. This time there were a lot more people and although the sunset wasn't quite as spectacular, it was an amazing atmosphere, sipping Fiji beer on the beach.

After another tasty 3 course meal, it was announced that the evening's entertainmnet was to take place on the beach and we were to be treated to a performance of Fijian dancing by the people from the nearby village. We made our way down to the beach, bonfires were lit and the dancing began. The atmosphere was good and we didn't mind being pulled up to join in (although our dancing was a bit rubbish!) At the end of some very energetic dancing the people from the village sang the farewell song which was an amazing end to their performance.

We enjoyed the rest of the night, chatting to the Lauras and a few others whilst sampling some of Isaac's cocktails. The only slightly unnerving event was the huge spider that Alan had photographed on his way to the bathroom! Luckily I did not see it. We went to bed, slightly tipsy and reflected about what an amazing night it had been.

Day 30

We awoke with a nasty hangover and I went up for breakfast as Lesley decided an extra hour in bed was preferrable. I had breakfast with Simon my dive instructor and he offered me a cut price deal on another dive, how could I refuse? Taking back some morsels of food to lesley to sweeten the news, I again went out on a boat and undertook my most challenging dive so far. Spending much of the time swimming through underwater caverns and only just squeezing through some gaps, it was a real test of my ability. Thankfully I came through unscathed and as I returned Lesley had dragged herself from bed and was packed ready to leave.

We were sad to leave Manta Ray and Fiji as a whole, the Flyer back to the mainland seemed like a reunion and we said goodbye to many of the friends we had met on the trip. Getting back to Skylodge exhausted we settled for burnt pizza for tea and soon were asleep.

Day 31

Just to show that travelling isn't all excitement and glamour, we spent the day washing our clothes and huddled into a sweaty internet cafe trying to sort the next leg of our journey. The highlight of the day was capturing the smallest lizard we'd ever seen and releasing it back into the wild.