San Diego to Tijuana...and back

Day 14

After discovering that Tijuana was a short drive from San Diego, we left the sunny California beaches behind and headed for the Mexican border. We followed the ubiquitous advice about not driving across (due to problems in being allowed back into America) and we walked across apprehensively. It was quite a surreal experience, passing through a metal turnstile; the plaque ahead told us that we were now in Mexico.

We headed for the city centre, soon realizing that we were lost and we jumped into one of the many available taxis. Within seconds of stepping out of the taxi onto la avenida revolucion, we were approached by a hawker, and given the heat and our lack of bearings; we decided to go in “Iguanas” for a drink. We noted that it was just after 12pm meaning that it was OK to drink.

After downing two coronas we made our way back onto the street and proceeded to be hassled by everyone that we came across. Everything was available, from leather, tacky souvenirs, donkey rides and every type of prescription drug you could imagine. Furthermore, as we strolled along the street we assured that “we’ll rip you off less than they do back there!” Although this was a very tempting offer, we went on the hunt for a taco stand and we eventually found a very busy one. We bought a couple of very tasty burritos, costing just $1 each.

“La Revo” was much shorter than we realized and within minutes we had reached the end of the road. We knew if we turned back we would be subjected to more of the same sales pitches, however, with no alternative we headed back.

We continued to fend off pushy Mexicans and their “gringo tax” until the heat of the day became too much to bear and we decided to go for a drink in a bar opposite the Caesar hotel, home of the famous Caesar Salad. We ordered two beers and were asked if we wanted them “Mexican style” which we naively agreed to. This resulted in four beers, two shots of tequila, nachos and salsa. Unfortunately it was not happy hour, as we had expected, and an overpriced bill was handed to us. After a few words of objection, we paid the bill and headed back out, suddenly feeling a lot more hardened to the hawkers’ advances.

We escaped the hassle of the street by going to the Fronton Pallacio Jai Allai, a historical building where a sport called Jai Alia used to be played. Jai Allai is a game similar to racquet ball that used to be popular in Mexico. This former gym is one of Tijuana’s landmarks and now it is used for events such as concerts, Luche Libre (Mexican pro wrestling) and museum exhibitions. The day that we visited, there was an exhibition of Mexican mummies.

After paying a cheap entrance fee we were ushered into a room with a cinema screen and a short film was played. It soon became apparent that we were the only English speaking people and we were given our own personal guide to translate the epitaphs. The building was dark eerie as we walked through and mummies of all ages were presented, including the remains of a baby form 1984.

After this slightly surreal experience we took a short walk to the “Parque de Marzo” and admired the two memorial monuments and the Mexican flag. Following our travel guide’s advice, we went to Chai Jai for tea. This meal did not disappoint, the fish was amazing and it was heaven to find some peace form the sweaty, bustling streets of Tijuana.

Feeling satisfied and confident in fending off hawkers (including small children) we walked back to the border, at which point we were both briefly interrogated before being allowed back into America. Suspicions particularly arose when an officer could not believe that Alan, being an English man, was not bringing any alcohol into the country. Despite this we were both given permission to re-enter America, and with relief we headed back to the car. It was good to experience Tijuana, however, a day was more that enough to appreciate its madness.